Frédéric Garnier, 72, is a retired French dentist who lives in the suburbs of Paris, Chantilly-Gouvieux. He spent the early parts of his life in the eastern town of Ethiopia, Dire Dawa, where his father was working for the Djibouti-Addis Ababa railway line. Coming back to the city and childhood home sixty years later with his wife and grown-up children, he was struck by the place that revived many fond memories-yet the inevitable changes left him feeling disoriented. He told Ethiopia Observer his story. (Video in French.)
I came to Ethiopia when I was two years old. We arrived by boat in Djibouti. At that time, air travel was not common, and the only civil airport in France was the Bourget, situated 7km north of Paris. We
In the afternoon, I went to the stadium, which was 200
During the holidays, we went to Harar and stayed at Ras Hotel, which was then surrounded by trees and gardens. Unfortunately, today it is surrounded by concrete buildings. I used to go to
We first went sightseeing in the south of the country, then to the east, Awash, which was crossed by railroads. We found Madame Kiki’s pizzeria. (A Greek woman who used to run the restaurant, Buffet d’Aouache for more than 60 years. ‘Aouache’ is the French spelling of Awash.) Then we headed to Harar, a city which I found had not much changed, at least the old town. On the other hand, Ras Hotel, there is no longer a green space around it. I was also disappointed to learn about the fate of Lake Haromaya because I have memories of stopping by between Dire Dawa and Harar. Today, it is nothing more than its name, as it is completely dry.
After Harar, we went down to Dire Dawa. Along the way, I had the impression of finding all turns, the rocks with the elephant’s shape in them, excreta. Upon arriving in Dire Dawa, we spent the night in a hotel whose names escape me now. From the terrace of the hotel, I saw the two towers of the Greek church. I said, ‘Here I am at home’. The next morning we set off to visit the house. We were with a guide called Abay Seyoum. At this moment, it was me who guided him. I recognized everything. Everything has been engraved, those happy days in Dire Dawa. We went on foot from the hotel. We went past the Greek Church, past Cinema Empire, and we arrived at my house.
I found my house and I rang. Thanks to a contact I had, I was informed we could visit it. The current tenants were nice and welcoming, I was told. I managed to visit the inside of my childhood home. It has changed a lot, the garden. There are several things that no longer exist. The garden was in a state of abandonment. Had my mother seen the garden, she would have been saddened. With the owner as our guide, we explored the interior of the house. I found my bedroom. They transformed the window into a bay. We walked through the bathroom, the kitchen. There was a veranda where I started learning to ride a bike. The living room. We went around the house on the other side. It used to give a view of the banana tree. Now, it gives on nothing at all. There was always the garage. There was a big flamboyant tree in which I climbed. But it was dead, it was cut, I learned. The owner’s son told me that when he was a kid, he used to climb up that tree. That was fun.
So, finding the house and showing it to my children was a great moment. We walked to the l’Alliance Française, where we were welcomed by the school director, who gave us a tour of the premises. I found the class where I was in C.P. (the first grade of primary school in France). We also saw kids who are learning. That was also a great moment. It was the classroom I attended when i was six. And then we continued on foot until the Catholic Mission. Abay arranged for me to meet Joseph Petros, the former president of l’Alliance éthio-française. We had a lengthy discussion. It was very nice to find him.
We, of course, visited the railroad yard. The train line has stopped running, including the wagons of goods. Now there is only a line to transport goods between Djibouti and Dire Dawa. The compound is almost abandoned.
Next, we headed to the stadium, where I had fun when I was a child. I also tried to go to the hospital. Because some of the physician’s children had been close to me but the guardian refused to let us enter. We did all this, all the same.
That evening my children celebrated my 70th birthday at the hotel, with a candle placed on a papaya. It was a moment that brought tears to my eyes—it was truly extraordinary. Then we returned to Addis Ababa. We also visited La Gare in Addis, a place filled with memories for me. I discovered Buffet De La Gare, which is today owned by other persons. We were with railwaymen. We played pétanque (the game of boules) with them. It was also a pleasant moment. And then I visited the train car of the Nigus. Unfortunately, the lounge car we used with my father no longer exists. It was all ruined. Here is, the next day I would leave for home. Now I wish to go back to Ethiopia to do sightseeing in the north of the country.
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What a beautiful story! Thanx a lot. I love Dire Dawa and have been there (and in Harar) several times, first when I have been living and working in Addis as a (West) German Volunteer in 1976/77, then one could even take the train from Addis. I returned to Ethiopia only more than 20 years later, when I went many times working with Menschen für Menschen … Since then I’m coming every year. I’m a journalist and the photographer who has accompanied me for instance in 20012 has taken beautiful pictures in Dire Dawa.